3/5/2023 0 Comments Fish bowl kitchenIt also has a traditional ginger-scallion sauce drizzled over the fish and a side of pickled cucumbers. The dish is kicked up with an emulsified chile butter made with fermented hot sauce and garlic, a riff on Savoy’s orange sauce, but a little more rich and decadent. The fish is served over a schmaltzy chicken fat rice that’s cooked with chicken stock and aromatics. “It’s really meaty, flaky, and flavorful.” “The fish comes out so moist, and the skin gets so nice and crispy that it kind of eats like chicken in a way,” he says. “Ever since I opened Yang’s Kitchen three years ago, I’d wanted to serve it in some form,” says Yang.įor Yang’s iteration, he starts with a dry-aged barramundi that he sources from the Joint fish market in Sherman Oaks. Growing up in the San Gabriel Valley, he would often eat Hainan chicken rice at Savoy, and as a result, the dish has always been on his mind. However, chef-owner Chris Yang of his namesake Yang’s Kitchen is making something completely different with his Hainan fish rice, a dish he’s serving tonight as part of a new dinner service on Fridays to Sundays. “The fish comes out so moist, and the skin gets so nice and crispy that it kind of eats like chicken in a way.” While institutions like Alhambra’s Savoy Kitchen have long been the standard for Hainan chicken rice, chefs at newer restaurants like Chinatown’s Pearl River Deli and Majordomo have put modern touches to the dish. It often comes along with a bowl of chicken broth for sipping. One of the most traditional Hainan chicken rice versions is poached chicken on a bed of chicken stock-punctuated rice and served alongside cucumber slices, and sauces like ginger-scallion, sweet soy, and chile. This Hainan 2.0 wave is rooted in the Hainan province in Southern China, but evolved from a comfort dish popular in Asian countries like Malaysia, Singapore, Vietnam, and Thailand - each with its own slight variations. Open Market is just one of a number of Los Angeles restaurants that have been serving up a new twist on the beloved Hainan chicken rice, from a modern fish iteration at Yang’s Kitchen in Alhambra to a chile crisp-topped version in sandwich form at Jeff’s Table in Highland Park. “I didn’t prepare that much for this one because I just had no idea anybody wanted it, but we sold 25 of them - that’s all I had - in less than an hour,” says chef Andrew Marco. In October, when the team behind Koreatown sandwich shop Open Market posted its daily special on Instagram - a Hainan chicken salad sando - it didn’t anticipate the enormous response.
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